Cummins Creek Trail
Location: Cummins Creek WIlderness;
Cape Perpetua Scenic Area, central Oregon Coast
Maps: USGS 1:24K quad: Yachats;
Free Cape Perpetua Trails map at VC is also useful
Access: From Yachats, drive 4 miles
south and turn East on FR 1050 for about ¼ mile to dirt parking
lot.
Road grade is OK for cars.
Trail: 4.5 miles, or about 8 miles
round trip using the Cummins Creek Loop.
More info at the Forest
Service website.
Dogs: Allowed on a leash
September,
2002
We drove back down to Newport early after
our stay at the Galaxy Motel in Philomath, around 7:30, and the sun was
shining brilliantly on the ocean when we arrived. We couldn't wait to get
out on the beach. There is an almost frantic urge to get on the sand at
first sight of a warm, sunny beach to landlubbers like me. We pulled into
a parking area just north of the bay and went down to the beach via an
unofficial path that fell steeply down a sandy chute that I doubted we
could get back up again. We spent about 3 hours walking in the bone-numbingly
cold September surf up to our ankles and through the warm sand and finally
along the jetty where millions of aquatic creatures had taken residence
in the tide pools. We saw starfish, crabs, little fish and a host of unknown
crustaceans attached to rocks. In the tide zone, we came upon numerous
beached jelly fish, looking exactly like globs of jelly. I wondered if
they were alive still, but couldn’t find anything to use as a tool to push
them back into water, although I'm not sure they actually move on their
own even in the water. My invertebrate biology is a bit rusty. I had a
hard time getting Andra to leave the beach where all she wanted to do was
lay down in the sun and nap. We would find the lee side of a particularly
large dune where the breeze was muffled and enjoy the sun for short spells,
but I was anxious to move on. Can't help it. I've got that 7-minute itch
syndrome.
We
stopped at Seal Rock Wayside for lunch and were amused by a family that
had about 8 kids who all tried their darndest to be little adults. By that
I mean they all scolded eachother as if they were parents, and all attempted
to be as politically correct as senators. We waited around until everyone
had left, then monopolized the lookout platform that stood out towards
a giant rock fin running parallel to the shore and bearing the brunt of
the white, foaming waves. The sea was much calmer on this day than it had
been in April when I had first stood on that lookout platform. The remainder
of
the day was spent driving slowly south and stopping often, whenver a pullout
presented itself.
This continued until early evening, when we
finally donned our packs at the Cummins Creek trailhead near Cape Perpetua.
The bright sunlight from the beach faded to a shaded and quiet twilight
as we started out up the trail, that was in essence an extension of Forest
Road 1050. Enormous trees lined the route, which was steep in places, and
contoured around steep washes lined with ferns. In the really thick timber,
the forest floor was barren of vegetation, covered by a foot of needles
and bark. Areas like these were dark and
unpleasant, and I was glad when we were past them and once again in the
fern-covered areas. After 3 miles, the trail forked away uphill from the
old logging road, and we continued on the old logging road for another
1/4 mile. We made camp right in the middle of the logging road, since this
was the only place flat enough and relatively free of vegetation. All around
was a jungle of swordleaf fern, foxglove, Sitka spruce, red alder and western
hemlock. We saw no other hikers on the trail, nor in the area where we
pitched the tent. We were completely out of contact with other humans all
evening and the silence was truly something to be thankful for. As the
sun sunk low, orange light pierced the forest from the west, circumventing
the thick canopy and sneaking in sideways. Shafts of blazing light slanted
in, illuminating the lichens and mosses covering old logs, and gleaming
off the shiny fern leaflets. We took a short walk in the golden light,
and we saw a northern spotted owl, the logger’s bane. I collected foxglove
seeds to take home and sprout, which grew with a vengeance when planted,
much to my amusement. After all the stress of motel-hopping, crowded parking
lots, traffic lights, speed zones and so forth, it was incredibly relaxing
to duck out of it and retreat into the wilderness where the only sounds
were the wind and an occassional bird call. Anyone who denies the value
of designated wilderness for any reason need spend only an hour there to
change his mind. Senator, did you catch that?
Andra tries to push over a tree..
...but it falls the wrong way
|
In
the morning, though there was not a cloud in the sky, the sun did not shed
light on our camp until well after 9, owing to the dramatic slopes held
in place by the roots of dramatic trees. I took a hike by myself through
the woods down the long-abandoned logging road while Andra slept in. I
walked about 1/4 mile from camp, then took off uphill away from the road,
following a wide moist creekbed that wound sharply up through a twisted
maze of giant firs and hemlocks. When I had pulled my way up the hill about
200 yards, I scrambled up the right side of the gulley and bent low to
creep back into the dark and thick woods. I finally felt I had gone far
enough and sat down in the soft carpet of a hundred years of needles and
leaves and rested. Not a speck of sunlight penetreated the canopy to touch
me, or fall anywhere near me, for that matter. Deeper woods I have never
seen. As my breathing slowed to barely audible, I noticed again how dead
calm and quiet it was. The air was thick and still, almost like it was
waiting. I enjoyed the feeling of utter isolation, being so far back and
out of sight of anyone and anything, hidden in the utter shadow and coolness,
peering out as if from a cave into the strip of sunlit forest floor far
away. I could barely make out the swath of shorter vegetation that marked the
old road I had walked in on far below me. I imagined how easy it would
be to hide out in a forest like this...and then pondered the possibility
of something else hiding out in a forest like this...isn’t this the general
area of Bigfoot stories? No, further south. Still...When I returned to
camp, Andra was up and we cooked oatmeal. We returned to the trail and
continued east, uphill and into the sunlight of a bright late summer day.
To return to the car, Instead of retracing our steps from the day before,
we took the Cummins Creek loop route that led up a very steep ridge to
the north and then rejoined the Cummins Creek trail near the parking lot.
This trail boasted the largest trees we had yet seen. We took our time
and stopped for long periods in the forest to rest in the dappled sunshine
and enjoy the pristine surroundings. Consequently, it was mid afternoon
when we emerged from the dark woods and thought about a real lunch to satisfy
the hunger in a way granola bars and beef jerky did not.
We
drove south along the coast, and soon arrived at Florence. Here we decided
to eat at "In and Out Burgers", a tiny shack on the main strip with pretty
good, but very greasy, burgers and fries. Greasy food is always welcome
after long hikes, for some reason. We also both ordered and put away a
wonderful shake. The most entertaining part of this stop were the humerous
bumper stickers plastered on the walls and ceiling. It was fun stop. Slightly
north of that Andra spotted sand dunes towering behind a supermarket building
and we parked in their lot to check things out. Andra would have it no
other way. She is a beach fiend, a beachophile, a surfoholic, and I had
denied her beach privelages for over 24 hours while we camped so I couldn't
argue. The sand had piled into dunes over 50 feet tall, but when we finally
managed to get high on top of one, we were disappointed to see that there
was no water in sight, only a distant row of wind-battered pines to the
west a mile or so, with the ocean presumably beyond that. All in all about
as festive as the Sahara. Behind the supermarket was a tall wooden fence,
and the sand was piled against it and leaking through cracks. It looked
like they were trying to hold back a mountain and I pictured a strong storm
burying the store in millions of tons of sand. Nature smites cooporate
America!
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Page created 11-19-02
Updated 1-16-06 |